Jelly, mango, ice-cream, jelly, mango and oranges, ice-cream, whipped cream and crumbled flake. Too dear, at 2/6d, for little boys, apparently. 250ml bottle of Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Orange, Passion Fruit & Champagne Jelly. Every time we go into Morelli’s, still going strong in all its 1950s splendour on Broadstairs seafront, he looks wistfully at the menu before ordering a coffee, yet when we finally treated him, he had to give up after two mouthfuls. Layer upon layer of ridiculous ice-cream decadence: is it even possible to make the definitive knickerbocker glory? In Britain you can still enjoy a Knickerbocker Glory in many ice cream parlours and restaurants - or of course you can even make your own at home. That said, the knickerbocker glory was certainly here and flourishing by the late 1920s, and almost a century on it’s still delighting adults and children alike – one H Potter enjoys just such a sundae in his first literary outing, albeit one already rejected by Dudley Dursley for insufficient ice-cream. Next, pour fruit sauce, like raspberry or peach sauce, over the ice cream before topping it with some whipped cream. This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative. Knickerbocker glory, the dessert of childhood dreams! makes a purchase. Personally, I reckon a scoop of chocolate and a scoop of vanilla do the job just fine. • The knickerbocker glory: a fond memory, or something best left in the past, riding on the coat tails of an undeniably fantastic name? 350ml whipping cream - whipped until stiff and fluffy. Find out more, The Telegraph values your comments but kindly requests all posts are on topic, constructive and respectful. It's time to make up the knickerbocker glory. Fortnum’s tops its showstopper of a sundae with Italian meringue, blowtorched until just golden, which is a great idea if you’re looking to stop traffic with your sundae, though as this is the kind of thing you might like to whip up on a hot afternoon, and meringues are undeniably a bit of a sticky faff to make, I’m going to stick with lightly sweetened cream. Put the gelatine sheets in a bowl and cover with cold water. To make a knickerbocker glory, start by chopping some colorful fruit, like peaches, grapes, and strawberries, into small pieces. Make the jelly the day before you want to serve the sundaes. Add it to the warm fruit juice and stir until it’s melted. Only Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh’s book Sweet recommends making your own in the form of an almost shockingly fruity raspberry semifreddo, which has the great benefit of not requiring an ice-cream maker. Once the jelly is set. Chef Mark Hix also likes vanilla, while at Fortnum & Mason, long famous for its ice-cream sundaes, they use a mixture of that and strawberry. More juice will come out of the strawberries once they’re cooking. If your childhood holidays were “like the covers of Ladybird books … you can ladle in curls of thick, churned West Country ice-cream from a sustainable cardboard tub with a picture of a cottage on it”, he writes in the Financial Times. If anything, it’s a mood, rather than a recipe – as food writer Mark Diacono notes, “I’ve probably not made two the same.” That said, here are a few ideas to get you started. Thumbnails by Felicity Cloake. The ice cream is a personal thing: Tim Hayward’s knickerbocker glory. Though, times being as they are, I’m not able to run out and stop the van to buy one, I do find a recipe from chef Tristan Welch of Parker’s Taveren in Cambridge that gets as close to the original as possible without a machine to aerate the stuff, using glucose and gelatine to recreate its “gluey stretchiness” before whizzing it in a blender to give a perfectly smooth finish. Variations can include jelly in the layers, different fruits, a different sauce or extra toppings such as flaked almonds; a wafer is also optional. Cook gently for 4 minutes, or until the berries are completely soft. I would, however, urge you to keep the maraschino cherry at the bottom (and top) of the glass: like the seed in the middle of an aniseed ball, chasing it around the glass is a good way to dull the disappointment of finishing the thing. Pour into a bowl, leave to cool then put in the fridge to set overnight. Repeat the process using the red jelly. If making the chocolate sauce instead, put the sugar in a small pan with 250ml water and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Ice-cream, fruit and syrup are all that’s required here, but some recipes can’t resist gilding the lily, which feels appropriate in a recipe that is, let’s be honest, 90% theatre and 10% sustenance. ), but when I do eventually track some down, it’s pure nostalgia. Fancy fresh fruit is undeniably more popular, however – even in 1915, they ran to raspberry puree. Jelly and clotted cream: Mark Hix’s knickerbocker glory. A sundae is a symphony of textures as well as flavours, which is why something crunchy is required in among all that soft fruit and rich dairy – Hayward recalls hundreds and thousands and a wafer being the crowning glory of his childhood memories, though he concedes flaked nuts were available “for the posh”. Hayward is less understanding here: “It is absolutely vital that you don’t become distracted by modern notions of freshness – it’s all very well banging on about gorgeous organic native strawberries, but they wouldn’t have lasted eight seconds under the counter in high season.” Instead, he demands that “postwar favourite”, tinned fruit cocktail: “The true secret of the knickerbocker glory, the cubes of tinned peach, the dodgy little blocks of tinned pear and the single, unbearably gorgeous grape that came in each can.” A can proves surprisingly hard to come by (an unlikely victim of stockpiling, perhaps? Felicity Cloake’s perfect knickerbocker glory. Plums are the difference: Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh’s knickerbocker glory. Either is authentic.”. Leave them to soften for 5 minutes. Oxford University Press, 2002) offers this: 'A knickerbocker glory is an elaborate ice-cream dessert consisting of layers of ice-cream, jelly, fruit, and cream served in a tall glass. Spread out on the prepared tray, bake for six to eight minutes, until golden brown, then remove, leave to cool and harden, then roughly chop. Whisk in the cocoa and salt, and continue to cook, stirring, until thickened, then leave to cool. Top with a dollop of cream and more nuts, add the flake and a second cherry, and eat immediately. The name wouldn’t have seemed so wonderfully strange over there, Knickerbocker being the Dutch-American hero of Washington Irving’s 1809 A History of New York, who, in turn, lent his name to knee breeches; Clarkson suggests the link might be the socks worn below these garments, which makes sense, because the knickerbocker glory’s defining feature is its colourful layers, striped with promise. n appropriately magnificent name for the king of ice-cream sundaes – almost 70 years on, my dad still hasn’t got over the fact that he was never allowed one on his annual childhood trip to the seaside. Fresh fruit and home-made jelly take this classic dessert to the next level Credit: Haarala Hamilton and Valerie Berry Diana Henry , The Telegraph's award-winning cookery writer 24 July 2020 • … An appropriately magnificent name for the king of ice-cream sundaes – almost 70 years on, my dad still hasn’t got over the fact that he was never allowed one on his annual childhood trip to the seaside. Take tall glasses and layer up as follows. Fancy fresh fruit is undeniably more popular, however – even in 1915, they ran to raspberry puree. Whipped cream is a must, popping up in every recipe except for Hix’s, which adds clotted cream instead.
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