Sigrid Barten: ‘Whether Lalique was producing magnificent creations for private collectors, designed for showcase display, or smaller jewellery pieces, all these items could be worn! The most beautiful, most creative and most original Art Nouveau objects were only produced over an even briefer period of time: from approximately 1898 to 1906. “The Kiss” is a recurrent theme in his work, starting with “The Kiss” brooch, which was donated to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1960. Straight lines found their place in clothing, architecture and, of course, painting. Music was also very important to Lalique: he loved Richard Wagner.’, Michel Perinet: ‘Art Nouveau was not intended for mere mortals, especially when it came to the jewellery. The undisputed master of this genre, however, was René Lalique (1860-1945), whose oeuvre embodied the very essence of French Art Nouveau. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 162,500, ‘As a young man, he moved to London in 1878 to study art and broaden his knowledge further. His book, La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle, is the reference for 19th-century jewellery. Art Nouveau was a brief moment (c. 1890-1910), which had a lasting impact on jewellery design and many other arts. Antique 19" Art Nouveau Enamel Sterling Silver Necklace Marked Jungstil? Henri Vever first exhibited at the Salon in Paris in 1900; the enamel and pearl pendant/brooch shown towards the top of this article, modelled on maple samaras in green window enamel, is a magnificent example of his work from the beginning of the 20th century. In the 19th century, creators rediscovered enamel techniques that would prove so important for Art Nouveau jewellery. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 37,500, Michel Perinet: ‘The general public became more open to modern developments after World War I. From shop Witchywoman. Marie-Cécile Cisamolo, Christie’s jewellery specialist: ‘Lalique was first and foremost a designer. Once inspired by a subject — whether flora, fauna, wasps or peacocks, he created variations on it using different models and materials. He introduced new materials, hard or semi-precious stones, ivory, glass — not to mention all kinds of enamel. Lalique’s jewels were not merely decorative — they had meaning, even if that meaning can be difficult to interpret. Witchywoman. Marie-Cécile Cisamolo: ‘As previously stated, the Art Nouveau movement took over Europe completely. He thought first and foremost of the person who was to wear the piece — the creation is always soft against the skin, with the reverse as beautiful as the front. Were these very intricate, delicate-looking pieces designed to be worn? Sigrid Barten: ‘Literature was very important for all artists at that time. An Art Nouveau enamel and glass 'raspberry' pendant, by René Lalique, 1902. He pushed the boundaries of his art in his jewellery designs. These artists therefore took a very long time to break free of these shackles. Yes, Fouquet made daintier jewellery by using less metal, but that was a strategic choice to make those designs easier to wear.’, Lalique was greatly influenced by the symbolism of plants…. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 480,500. An Art Nouveau doublet opal, enamel and diamond ring, by Eugène Feuillâtre, circa 1900. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 75,000, An Art Nouveau enamel and pearl pendant/brooch, by Henri Vever, circa 1900. An Art Nouveau galalith, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, by René Lalique, circa 1899-1901. An Art Nouveau rock crystal, diamond and enamel 'The Kiss' pendant necklace, by René Lalique, circa 1905. It was, and remains, the most expensive Art Nouveau jewel ever sold at auction — equivalent to more than $1,000,000 in today’s money. ‘I also have to mention Henri Vever. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 62,500, An Art Nouveau enamel, pearl and emerald ring, by Lucien Gaillard, circa 1900. Originally, the women who ordered and wore these pieces were actresses like Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923), grandes cocottes like La Belle Otero (1868-1965) and some worldly socialites like Countess Grefulhe (1860-1952). 5 out of 5 stars (17) 17 reviews $ 30.00 FREE shipping Only 1 available and it's in 1 person's cart. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 324,500, An Art Nouveau galalith, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, by René Lalique, circa 1899-1901. Something went wrong. The raspberry branch is very realistic — it looks just like a small sculpture, it is three-dimensional. FAST 'N FREE. What were the other recurring themes in Lalique’s Art Nouveau designs? Before leaving, however, he created ‘Le Baiser’ brooch for his English love. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 106,250, Sigrid Barten: ‘Lalique’s work is a synthesis of all the arts. It grows everywhere and stays green, summer and winter. Sigrid Barten: ‘Yes. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 100,000. None were rigid, and they were almost invisibly supple. Here, a panel of leading experts dissect the movement, its influences and some of its greatest designers, including Lalique, Georges Fouquet, Henri Vever, Eugène Feuillâtre, Léopold Gautrait, and Lucien Gaillard. The influence of nature was rediscovered as well, inspired by ceramicist Bernard Palissy and goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini.’. 62 watching. Privacy Policy, Our panel of experts appraises the movement, its influences and some of its greatest designers, from Lalique to Fouquet — illustrated with superb pieces from the largest collection of Art Nouveau jewellery ever to come to auction, An Art Nouveau opal, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, by Georges Fouquet, Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection, An Art Nouveau opal, diamond and enamel 'cedars' pendant necklace, by Georges Fouquet, An Art Nouveau enamel, diamond and pearl pendant necklace, by Henri Vever, An Art Nouveau enamel and pearl pendant/brooch, by Henri Vever, An Art Nouveau opal and enamel brooch, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau enamel, chrysoprase and pearl brooch, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau galalith, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau diamond, enamel and glass 'Hawthorn' brooch, by René Lalique, 1899-1901, An Art Nouveau enamel and glass 'raspberry' pendant, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau rock crystal, diamond and enamel 'The Kiss' pendant necklace, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau sapphire and enamel ring, by René Lalique, An Art Nouveau doublet opal, enamel and diamond ring, by Eugène Feuillâtre, An Art Nouveau enamel, diamond and emerald ring, by Léopold Gautrait, An Art Nouveau enamel and emerald ring, by Lucien Gaillard, An Art Nouveau enamel, pearl and emerald ring, by Lucien Gaillard, An Art Nouveau enamel, diamond and pearl pendant necklace, by René Lalique. Was Art Nouveau a complete break with the decorative arts of the late 19th century? He then designed Sarah Bernhardt’s stage jewellery for the theatre. It influenced all artists for those precious 15 to 20 years. The work confirmed interest among various collectors and antique dealers in an artistic movement that had been completely abandoned; an interest that, though well-established, had been rather scattered and unfocused.’, You can read the full interviews with Michel Perinet, Sigrid Barten and Evelyne Possémé in the sale catalogue, An Art Nouveau enamel, diamond and pearl pendant necklace, by René Lalique, 1899-1901. $199.99. $799.99. They subsequently collaborated closely on many important commissions, including a bangle and ring for Sarah Bernhardt which was sold at Christie’s in 1987. This lot was offered in Beyond Boundaries: Magnificent Jewels from a European Collection on 13 November 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva and sold for CHF 300,000, An Art Nouveau opal, diamond and enamel 'cedars' pendant necklace, by Georges Fouquet, 1901. Sigrid Barten, author of an acclaimed book on René Lalique: ‘Art Nouveau is an art total — it wholly invaded every art form: jewellery, architecture, painting, music, literature, etc. They were crushed by a glorious tradition; they dared not innovate; they did not see how they could do better than their predecessors. He worked with his father until his retirement, then took over the business in 1895. ‘That breaking free really begins with Art Nouveau, in the late 19th century, which emphasised, for instance, the use of the female figure in the decorative arts, inspired by the Renaissance. ‘In Art Nouveau — as in Japanese art, for instance — there is no difference between the arts majeurs and the decorative arts.
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